This page was last updated: 05/02/11
Typical Residential Installation
A complete perimeter protection
is the preferred way to install security.
electric fence that is used to pen livestock is relatively easy to bypass.
A correctly installed electric
security fence with a "high voltage"
following pictures illustrate the correct way to install electrically
"CLICK ON PICTURE TO ENLARGE"
In this installation, 4 bare galvanized iron conductors are
installed as an extension over an existing wrought iron fence. The conductors in
this case are galvanized iron. Other common conductor materials used, are aluminum wire, stainless steel wire, steel or aluminum cable, and hardened
high tensile steel wires. The choice of conductors depends on the
circumstance and degree of security required.
top conductor (1) is grounded while the second conductor (2) is charged.
The next conductor (3) is grounded. The bottom conductor (4) is charged. This is
a standard configuration where the top wire is grounded so that fallen branched
and fronds will not short out the system, and the alternate wires are
charged. (see the interconnection diagram at the bottom of this page) Thus
each "charged" conductor is adjacent to a earth ground conductor on
either side to maximize the "shock" effect.
The components should be mounted in a secure location. For increased security, these components can be installed in a locked steel box. The components shown from left to right are, a current limited battery charger plugged into a 230VAC household receptacle; a high voltage fence charger; an alarm siren; a high voltage sensor/monitor.
All the fence components
are powered by the 12 volt rechargeable battery to maintain a minimum of 48
hours of operation during a utility power outage. The
battery will use 3 amp-hours/day is used to continue operation
when there is loss of power. A 12 amp-hour battery will give you about 4 days of operation without utility power. (see the interconnection diagram
at the bottom of this page)
The conductors should have sufficient tensioning devices to keep the wires from sagging and shorting out against each other. In this installation, the contractor used small turnbuckles. Ideally, there should tensioning devices on each conductor for every straight section of fence. The conductors are then electrically connected to each other around the corner as shown.
The conductors as shown here, are tensioned and
then connected with crimp connectors around the corner. (see the
interconnection diagram at the bottom of this page)
The conductors as shown here, are tensioned
appropriately, and then connected around the corner as recommended. It is recommended to have
"warning" signs every 10 meters or so.
The signs warn away potential intruders and also alleviates any remote liability exposure.
The following pictures further illustrate the methods used to connect around a corner. (see the interconnection diagram at the bottom of this page).
In the picture above and the picture below, common galvanized turnbuckles are used to maintain the tension in the charged conductors. All wire will stretch, and almost impossible during installation to get taut and clean looking. So some kind of tensioning devices are used for the conductors. It is usual to install tensioning devices as shown on each straight run, and do not try to tension the wire around the corner. The preferred way is to connect around the corner as shown in previous pictures.
This is the correct way to install the wires over a vertical step. The conductors are tensioned with turnbuckles and interconnected as shown. (see the interconnection diagram at the bottom of this page)
There are several ways you can mount over a vertical step, but the basic principal is always the same. While you can stretch or tension the wires around a gradual corner or step, when the step or corner is close to 90 degrees, it is best to mount and stretch the conductors separately, and then electrically connect them.
All connections, including the electrical connections should be done with a crimping or clamping device. Small cable clamps work well on barbed wire and steel cable. Just wrapping or twisting the wires together allows for corrosion and each poor connection will lower the actual fence voltage.
The electrical connections that connect to the high voltage charger and the high voltage monitor/sensor have been additionally insulated and required to have a solid electrical contact as shown.
The method of routing the high voltage leads both in and out make it virtually impossible to disconnect with the power applied. Additional insulation value is added to ordinary stranded copper wire by threading the copper wire through a thick wall plastic tubing.
The fence extensions are clamped onto the existing fence main posts, so if at some future time the high voltage extensions are required to be moved or made higher, it becomes an easy chore to replace or remove.
The existing fence is already grounded through the cement, but requires to be electrically bonded to ensure a complete and solid ground, and a nasty and extremely painful shock to anybody that is climbing and touches one of the high voltage conductors while also touching the existing metal fence.